Essayist William Deresiewicz worries that our newfound appreciation of food is coming at the expense of art:
Just as aestheticism, the religion of art, inherited the position of Christianity among the progressive classes around the turn of the 20th century, so has foodism taken over from aestheticism around the turn of the 21st. Now we read the gospel according, not to Joyce or Proust, but to Michael Pollan and Alice Waters. […] But food, for all that, is not art. Both begin by addressing the senses, but that is where food stops. […] A good risotto is a fine thing, but it isnt going to give you insight into other people, allow you to see the world in a new way, or force you to take an inventory of your soul.